Maddie and I went to Seorak-San on Monday and Tuesday as we didn't have school (still not sure why) and it was absolutely fantastic. Seorak-San (Snow-Peak Mountain) is Korea's second largest land based National Park and a UNESCO world biosphere reserve. It's considered by many to be the most striking mountainous area in the country- which says quite a lot as about seventy percent of the country is mountains. It was breathtakingly beautiful, with views all the way to the East Sea (Most Americans know this body of water as the Sea of Japan, but refer to it as such here and you'll get an earful about how it's more Korean than Japanese and a terrible misnomer) tumbling waterfalls, and unbelievable rocky cliffs and snaking valleys.
Hiking is more or less a national past time in Korea, and on weekends the subways are full of people in hiking gear getting out of the city. It tends to draw people that are older, and they all look great doing it. There is very much a set Korean "hiking attire" which includes not only lightweight dark pants and a lightweight neon hiking jacket, but walking sticks and fancy mini-backpacks to boot. Oh and headgear. You should see the headgear. Picture everything from massive sun visors for the ladies to hiking fedora's for the men. (I really want a hiking fedora... breaking the gender norms!) Needless to say, though subways are already notorious for good people watching, on weekends they are particularly great.
One of the things that I most appreciated seeing on this trip was that literally everyone, of all ages, gets out. Not only did we come across a number of young kids on school trips visiting the park, but there were even more older people. People who in America would likely never be capable, much less wanting, to do some pretty serious, and at times grueling, hiking. Though the park is definitely a tourist (Korean and non) attraction and accommodating as such, (ie. there is a cable car that you can take almost to the top of one of the peaks before climbing the remainder of the way) it's not a park that you can drive into, snap a couple of pictures, and be on your merry way. Actually, I don't think you can even drive into the majority of the park. There is a big parking lot at the outer edge that I think you have to use. The park is seen by foot. If you want to see it, you have to hike it. And the thing is, everyone from babies to women I would put in their 70s was there appreciating it.
Seorak-San is also dotted with Buddhist temples, one of which, Shinhueng-Sa, is the third district headquarters of the Jogye Buddhist Sect. It's really quite amazing to come upon these unbelievable temples and monks way up in the cliff faces and crags of mountains. It's such a beautiful experience, and I think it intuitively makes sense that places of worship should be in the midst of natural beauty. I have found my Divine Being more in the natural world than I have in any religious institution. The world we live in is the most inspiring thing humanity has, and it is I think easy to forget that. Or for many perhaps ever fully realize that.
The most invigorating part of our trip was the hike to the top of Ulsan Bawi- a rocky outcrop in the Mountains formed by a volcanic intrusion- that sits about 900 meters above sea level. There are over 800 stairs throughout the climb, as a series of metal stairways and ladders have been erected to make it possible without ropes. It's pretty intense. While I don't have a hear of heights, I do have a fear of ladders. Irrational? Perhaps, but real none the less. I more or less ditched Maddie towards the end of the hike when it was essentially metal stairs in the sky because I couldn't handle stopping to take a break. I just had to concentrate on getting off the stairs and ladders and onto the peak. And on breathing regularly too. As a result of my irrational or not fear, I have to say I think I climbed the last part quite impressively time wise. I was treking by people left and right.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip, and I left it with a new goal- find a middle-aged Korean hiking buddy. Maddie suggested I simply pick one at random on the subway and employ stalker-like tactics, but I've opted for joining Seoul Hiking Group instead. Though being a subway stalker would probably make for a better blog post. Pictures to come.
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